Today we slept in a little; we are both enjoying our trip, but the
constant motion is perhaps taking a bit of a toll. We lingered over our breakfast
and decided to visit Boboli Gardens today, as it is a lovely cool day, the
gardens are close, and we both wanted a bit of the natural world as a counter
to the art and architecture we have been enjoying.
First we headed to the Sapori e Dintorni Conad supermercato on Via de Bardi for acqua and ambrosoli miele candies. At the garden, we walked down to the
limonaia, which we could not enter this time—a real pity, as the garden is full of lemon
trees bearing fruit, as well as peonies
and roses. Peonies were in bloom everywhere, seas of pink and white—it was
beautiful.
Next we meandered to the Isolotto; again, full of peonies, roses and
lemon trees, spectacular in the sunshine. We sat and watched a crane fishing in
the pond; lovely, peaceful and quiet, even though there were many people
enjoying the garden. We walked back up the far side of the garden and took a
slight circuitous route (because of bits closed off for work) to the Museo delle Porcellane, not because we wanted to look at porcelain, but because it sits
high on the hill at the back of the garden and commands views of the
surrounding countryside. Again, phenomenal gardens there filled with roses and
peonies.
From there we drifted over to the Kaffeehaus and again
admired the views toward Florence. We walked down the grand stairs in the
amphitheater (this time, please note, we were smart enough NOT to walk UP
them, which we did on our first visit). On the way out, we looked at the spectacular rose gardens, full of both
roses and peonies (sensing a theme?).
On the way back to La Scaletta, we looked
at the work of the street artists who set up at Palazzo Pitti and found a
couple of watercolors for my mother. At the hotel, we ate insalata caprese and drank
Negronis (and Nancy had another chocolate flan, this time with fragola gelato
as an accompaniment!) and advised a travel writer from Minnesota about what to
see, as she was only in Florence for a short time.
We went back to the room for a bit, where Shawn had a shower and I rubbed down his lower back, which was spasming. While Shawn napped, I caught up
this journal and read; lovely as our trip has been, it is feeling good to have
these periods of little motion over the last couple of days. We will try again for dinner at Il SantoBevitore this evening.... Il Santo Bevitore was full up this evening when Cristina called;
she made us a reservation for 8 PM there tomorrow night, so we'll see if it
lives up to its reputation as a hip spot with good food.
I hit a wall this evening, just exhausted before we even
started to think about what else to do for dinner, so we looked a bit at Trip
Advisor, but then just headed out toward Via dei Bardi to see what options
looked good. Shawn had read about Ristorante Alfredo Sull'Arno on Trip Advisor;
I was so tired that I had hardly looked—and, to be honest, and somewhat surprisingly for me, I was tired of
looking, too. I'm actually about ready to stop choosing restaurants and be able to just
make something when I'm hungry. I definitely want an apartment the next time we
do this, so that sometimes we can have meals at home.
Anyway, we tried Ristorante Alfredo Sull'Arno; the view of the Arno
and the Uffizi was lovely, as it was just fading to dusk. Our table was a bit
cramped; tables here seemed closer together than elsewhere. I had a potato gnocchi with pesto and cherry tomatoes
that was quite good; I don't remember what pasta Shawn had. We both had a plate
of grilled vegetables for secondo, as the restaurant did not have the grilled
mushrooms that Shawn tried to order. The vegetables were OK, but as we had just had
grilled vegetables at La Reggia degli Etruschi as contorno, they simply did not
compare. These tasted as though they had been grilled quite some time before, and the
olive oil didn't have that lovely peppery finish that the truly good stuff has.
We skipped dessert and went back to the hotel for an early night; I passed out
pretty quickly.
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